Chef Brian McMonagle has a smile on his face every morning he opens the kitchen at No 9 Market Square.
The Rareagh native, who opened his own restaurant in Letterkenny in March, treats the space like an extension of his home, and everyone is welcome.
“In the morning I come in with a smile on my face and I leave, whatever time around midnight and I am still smiling,” says Brian.
Although Brian keeps his culinary secrets closely guarded, he’s quick to share that kindness is the cornerstone of his success so far.
“People are just so lovely supporting me by coming in to say hello. Even total strangers from the town and surrounding areas, from Glenswilly to Churchill, they just pop in to enjoy it.”
The enthusiasm of local producers, compliments to the chef and social media shoutouts have been instrumental in building the customer base.
“Human kindness has really shown its face,” Brian notes.
No 9 is housed in the same unit previously occupied by Pat and Mary Bradley, former owners of the iconic Pats on the Square for nearly 40 years. While transforming into a warm and cosy setting, Brian’s ethos is based on positive vibes only.
No. 9 Market Square Letterkenny. Photo: Kevin Dooher
“Pats on the Square was such a staple of Letterkenny for years, and it is nice I was able to pull it back to life,” he said.
“When I was deciding on the interior, I wanted to bring the warmth of Donegal into a room.
“Donegal people are so chilled out and relaxed, and they love nothing more than to be relaxed, it brings out the best of them, it makes them smile
“If you can relax a Donegal person, they are the happiest people on the planet. So I wanted my restaurant to relax, to be a comfort setting for just a happy time out.”
No. 9 Market Square Letterkenny. Photo: Kevin Dooher
No. 9 Market Square Letterkenny. Photo: Rachel McLaughlin
Good food and good wine make great company too, and Brian’s menu is a celebration of local produce and the best of each season.
“I find it very exciting to source Donegal produce. As restaurants, it’s our duty to support local and support families who are trying to make a living. You see the passion in their eyes when you meet. I am pushing up on 12 local suppliers and I am hoping to get to 20.”
His fine-dining menu with a modern Irish twist features his signature dish, pan-roast Monkfish in a prawn bisque, sourced fresh from Albatross Seafoods in Killybegs. Between the honey, herbs, and drinks, there’s a taste of Donegal in plenty.
Brian isn’t focused solely on picture-perfect presentation, although diners do delight in his beautiful plates.
“There’s nothing fancy, I indulge to make my dishes flavourful, I don’t put something on a plate to look pretty. Everything on the plate is punchy and tasty and people enjoy it.”
Greencastle Cod from Albatross Seafoods. Photo: Kevin Dooher
Whipped Goats Cheese with John McLoone’s Honey. Photo: Kevin Dooher
Rump of Irish Lamb. Photo: Kevin Dooher
Brian said: “From day one when I started, I said this was my home, I welcome you because you worked all week and you are coming into my house to spend your money. I have to thank you, I am grateful for you to come in and I do my best to make sure everything works well for everyone and you get your money’s worth.”
Brian’s gratitude extends to his service team. “The team are just fantastic. From day one, I told them my dream and they are with me on it and they are so supportive. It’s not just a job for them, they enjoy it.”
Brian’s invite into his ‘home’ has now been extended to Monday openings.
“Being from the industry myself, I know for people working in bars, restaurants, taxi drivers, barbers, and hairdressers, their weekend starts on a Monday I wanted to strike a Monaday club and give it more of a vibe,” he said.
Culinary arts was in his heart from an early age. An alumnus of Killybegs Catering College, he embarked on his professional journey at the young age of 20, securing his first role as the head chef at Arnolds Hotel in Dunfanaghy.
During his time at O’Grady’s on the Pier, he earned accolades such as Best Seafood and Best Restaurant in Ireland
After nearly seven years in Donaghmore, Tyrone, Brian felt the pull of his roots and a longing to be closer to his parents Bernard and Rosaleen.
“One day, I was having a coffee with my friend Enda Nicholls, and he said, ‘Why don’t you open a restaurant?’ And I said, ‘What?’ From that day, it was all go.”
Navigating the hospitality industry’s challenges, Brian’s years of experience have prepared him for whatever comes.
“Of course the lower VAT rate would make our lives so much easier, there are so many hidden costs. But I am positive moving forward because negativity has no room in this house. I knew what I was up against before the doors opened,” he said.
“It’s not easy but I am loving life and taking each day as it comes. The harder I work, the better it will be. I love my work; that’s my ethos.”
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